Color
Gemstone colors are graded based on hue, tone, and saturation. Hue refers to the gradation of color, such as dark or pale. Tone represents how light is absorbed and reflected, ranging from black to clear and determining color intensity. Saturation indicates the primary color’s dominance in the stone. Rubies that exhibit a vibrant, predominantly red hue are highly coveted.
The color spectrum of rubies spans from deep, blackish red to orangish or pinkish red. Regardless of secondary color variations, red remains the primary color. Darker rubies, resembling wine, possess a rich color but may have less sparkle. Pure red rubies, often called “pigeon blood” or Burmese red rubies, boast a lustrous, sparkling true red and are the most prized.
Burmese rubies are distinguished by a slight bluish tinge, an old term from the gemstone industry in the 1800s. This term signifies top quality, even if not scientifically precise. While Myanmar is famously known for these rubies, similar quality can be found in Tanzania, Mozambique, and Vietnam.
“Royal red” rubies describe slightly darker shades, a result of higher natural iron content reducing blue transmission and fluorescence. These rubies, found in Mozambique, Thailand, Cambodia, Kenya, and Madagascar, appear a shade darker than “pigeon blood” rubies.
Lighter rubies exhibit an almost pink hue, akin to pink sapphires. Pleochroic in nature, rubies can reflect different shades and sparkle more when viewed from various angles. They also possess fluorescence, radiating under natural or artificial light. Your observation plays a crucial role in assessing ruby quality; touches of gray or brown may indicate lower quality.
Hue, Tone & Saturation
Hue identifies the color’s placement on the spectrum, with primary colors being red, green, and blue. Intermediary colors form between secondary colors, such as violet. Rubies closest to pure red are highly prized for their hue. Secondary color mixes, like purple, blue, or orange, move rubies away from a perfect red hue, though some may prefer these combinations. Saturation refers to the color’s intensity; highly saturated rubies appear vividly red. Rubies naturally benefit from fluorescence, enhancing color richness. Perfectly saturated rubies are rare and valuable. Tone indicates color quantity; too much results in dark, lifeless rubies, while too little creates a flat, glassy appearance. A medium tone is most desirable, balancing color and sparkle.
Opacity
Transparency significantly impacts a ruby’s value. Rubies with numerous inclusions, such as rutile needles (referred to as silk), lack transparency and are less valuable. The most valuable rubies have minimal inclusions, making them easily transparent and vivid in sparkle. Clarity inclusions and cutting greatly affect ruby color. High-inclusion rubies may appear too dark or light, while poorly cut rubies fail to reflect light properly, appearing dull or glassy.
Treatment
Ruby treatments enhance color and clarity, with heat treatment being the most common. Heat improves color consistency and reduces inclusion visibility. Other treatments fill fractures and inclusions using molten lead glass for a similar look to real rubies. Most rubies undergo heat treatment, a common and permanent enhancement in reputable ruby sales. However, beware of non-heat treatments, as they may not be durable. Untreated rubies with high color and clarity command higher prices and are scarce, especially over 3 carats.
FAQs
How popular are princess engagement rings?
Princess cut diamond engagement rings are highly popular, known for their classic appeal. It is the second most preferred choice after the round-cut diamond.
What is the best metal for a princess engagement ring?
Platinum is optimal for princess cut engagement rings, combining durability with luxury. It is hypoallergenic, making it ideal for sensitive skin.
Do princess cut diamonds look smaller than round diamonds?
Princess cut diamonds do not appear smaller than round diamonds. Some believe they look larger due to a bigger table, despite having a smaller pavilion that refracts less light.
What is the best color and clarity grade for a princess diamond?
The ideal color for princess cut diamonds falls within the colorless range (D, E, F) or near-colorless (G, H, I). The cut helps hide inclusions, so choose a clarity grade that suits your budget, provided it looks eye-clean.