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Shape and Carat
Rubies are most commonly cut into cushion and oval shapes, following the same traditional forms as diamonds. However, much of the carat weight in gemstones is often retained at the base, making a ruby appear smaller in diameter compared to a diamond of equivalent carat weight. This effect is particularly noticeable in round rubies. Round, cushion, and oval cuts are frequently used for pendants, rings, and earrings. Despite its popularity, the round shape leads to more rough wastage and is available in various sizes. Cutters generally avoid very small sizes that resemble round shapes. Discover more about Ruby Shapes below.
Less common shapes include emerald, pear, and marquise. While these shapes are easier to find under one carat, they are harder to come by in larger sizes. Another trendy form is the princess cut, a perfect square that looks stunning in all types of jewelry, although its cutting complexity makes it scarce in smaller sizes.
The primary aim when cutting a ruby is to preserve as much of the rough gemstone as possible. Avoiding wastage and focusing on popular shapes largely influence the final size and shape of the faceted ruby. Standard millimeter sizes, referred to as calibrated cuts, are typically employed in jewelry-making. Though more weight might be lost in creating these sizes, they are more desirable for crafting. In special cases or for larger carat weights, rubies might be cut into non-standard sizes.
Ruby Brilliance
Proper faceting determines how light interacts with a ruby, defining its sparkle or “life.” Cutters must facet rubies to maximize light entry and reflection. An incorrectly sized culet can result in light leakage, diminishing the stone’s brilliance. Precise, symmetrical faceting is essential to ensure maximum brilliance and fire in a ruby.
Types of Cuts
Step Cut
The step or emerald cut features facets running parallel to the ruby’s edge, resembling a symmetrical ascending staircase. The corners are slightly softened to prevent chipping. This cut highlights the ruby’s natural red beauty.
Brilliant Cut
Brilliant cuts feature triangular cut facets that vary in number depending on the ruby’s shape. These symmetrical facets draw light into the ruby, with a brilliant cut round ruby typically having 58 facets.
Mixed Cut
The mixed cut combines the brilliant cut and the step cut, making it the most commonly chosen cut for gemstones, including rubies. Typically, the crown of the ruby features a brilliant cut to enhance sparkle, while the pavilion is cut in steps. This method not only reduces rough wastage but also enhances the ruby’s color. Artful Bracelets utilizes rubies with either a brilliant cut or a mixed cut to optimize both sparkle and color.
Cabochon Cut
The cabochon ruby cut is often featured in vintage jewelry styles. This type of cut gives the ruby a domed shape with a flat bottom, a smooth top, and no facets, which results in a highly polished surface. Cabochon cuts are relatively easy to manufacture and generally more affordable.
Ruby Inclusions
Inclusions in a ruby refer to natural formations that develop as the ruby forms within the earth. These inclusions can appear as silk, dark knots, or cracks. It is crucial to preserve the structural integrity of the gem when cutting a ruby. Visible cracks or fissures should not be large enough to compromise the gem’s beauty. Additionally, inclusions that are visible when the ruby is viewed from the top in the table reduce the gem’s desirability and value. The goal is to minimize inclusions in the center of the ruby while also minimizing the waste of the rough ruby. Typically, cutters aim to produce rubies that are eye-clean for optimal value. Artful Bracelets exclusively uses eye-clean rubies in all their jewelry. Learn more about ruby clarity.
FAQs
What is a ruby gem?
A ruby gem is a precious stone that ranges in color from pinkish-red to blood-red. It is highly prized for its unique hue, symbolism, and durability, making it suitable for various types of jewelry.
How are rubies graded?
Unlike diamonds, rubies don’t have a standardized grading system. Nonetheless, by considering the 4Cs—especially the color—a ruby can be categorized into one of three grades:
Good (A): These rubies are opaque with a dark red color.
Better (AA): Medium pinkish-red rubies that include eye-visible inclusions.
Best (AAA): Top-quality rubies that exhibit a rich red color with pink undertones and minor inclusions.
At Artful Bracelets, we exclusively use AAA quality rubies in our fine jewelry.
How much on average are diamond earrings?
The cost of diamond earrings varies based on style, weight, diamonds, and metal selected. On average, classic stud styles with lab-grown diamonds range from $250 to upwards of $1000. For natural diamonds, prices start around $500 and can go up to approximately $3000.
What are huggie earrings?
Huggie earrings are a style of small hoop earrings designed to “hug” the ear closely. They are comfortable for daily wear and fit close to the earlobe.
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