Unveiling the Art of Ruby Cutting

Round red natural AAA quality Ruby

ruby shapes

Shape and Carat

Rubies are most commonly cut into cushion and oval shapes, following the same traditional forms as diamonds. However, much of the carat weight in gemstones is often retained at the base, making a ruby appear smaller in diameter compared to a diamond of equivalent carat weight. This effect is particularly noticeable in round rubies. Round, cushion, and oval cuts are frequently used for pendants, rings, and earrings. Despite its popularity, the round shape leads to more rough wastage and is available in various sizes. Cutters generally avoid very small sizes that resemble round shapes. Discover more about Ruby Shapes below.

Round red natural AAA quality Ruby
Oval red natural AAA quality Ruby
Cushion red natural AAA quality Ruby
Emerald red natural AAA quality Ruby

Less common shapes include emerald, pear, and marquise. While these shapes are easier to find under one carat, they are harder to come by in larger sizes. Another trendy form is the princess cut, a perfect square that looks stunning in all types of jewelry, although its cutting complexity makes it scarce in smaller sizes.

The primary aim when cutting a ruby is to preserve as much of the rough gemstone as possible. Avoiding wastage and focusing on popular shapes largely influence the final size and shape of the faceted ruby. Standard millimeter sizes, referred to as calibrated cuts, are typically employed in jewelry-making. Though more weight might be lost in creating these sizes, they are more desirable for crafting. In special cases or for larger carat weights, rubies might be cut into non-standard sizes.

Color Consideration

Another key factor in the cutting process is considering the color, saturation, and hue of a ruby. Although red is the primary color for all rubies, some may have tinges of purple or orange. Rubies also exhibit pleochroism, meaning the cut can cause the appearance of different colors like purplish red or orangey red. By aligning the crystal’s table facet perpendicular to its long axis, the ideal color can be achieved. Mastering the art of cutting a ruby requires a trained eye to ensure uniform color and greater value. Learn more in our ruby color guide.

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Ruby Brilliance

Proper faceting determines how light interacts with a ruby, defining its sparkle or “life.” Cutters must facet rubies to maximize light entry and reflection. An incorrectly sized culet can result in light leakage, diminishing the stone’s brilliance. Precise, symmetrical faceting is essential to ensure maximum brilliance and fire in a ruby.

sparkling natural oval ruby showing light performance and brilliance

Types of Cuts

octagon step cut natural red ruby

Step Cut

The step or emerald cut features facets running parallel to the ruby’s edge, resembling a symmetrical ascending staircase. The corners are slightly softened to prevent chipping. This cut highlights the ruby’s natural red beauty.

round brilliant cut natural red ruby

Brilliant Cut

Brilliant cuts feature triangular cut facets that vary in number depending on the ruby’s shape. These symmetrical facets draw light into the ruby, with a brilliant cut round ruby typically having 58 facets.

round mixed cut natural red ruby

Mixed Cut

The mixed cut combines the brilliant cut and the step cut, making it the most commonly chosen cut for gemstones, including rubies. Typically, the crown of the ruby features a brilliant cut to enhance sparkle, while the pavilion is cut in steps. This method not only reduces rough wastage but also enhances the ruby’s color. Artful Bracelets utilizes rubies with either a brilliant cut or a mixed cut to optimize both sparkle and color.

round cabochon cut natural red ruby

Cabochon Cut

The cabochon ruby cut is often featured in vintage jewelry styles. This type of cut gives the ruby a domed shape with a flat bottom, a smooth top, and no facets, which results in a highly polished surface. Cabochon cuts are relatively easy to manufacture and generally more affordable.

Ruby Inclusions

Inclusions in a ruby refer to natural formations that develop as the ruby forms within the earth. These inclusions can appear as silk, dark knots, or cracks. It is crucial to preserve the structural integrity of the gem when cutting a ruby. Visible cracks or fissures should not be large enough to compromise the gem’s beauty. Additionally, inclusions that are visible when the ruby is viewed from the top in the table reduce the gem’s desirability and value. The goal is to minimize inclusions in the center of the ruby while also minimizing the waste of the rough ruby. Typically, cutters aim to produce rubies that are eye-clean for optimal value. Artful Bracelets exclusively uses eye-clean rubies in all their jewelry. Learn more about ruby clarity.

ruby with natural crystal inclusions
ruby with many white feather inclusions
Needle Inclusions in rubies known as silk
several overlapping needle inclusions with crystals in a red ruby

FAQs

What is a ruby gem?

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A ruby gem is a precious stone that ranges in color from pinkish-red to blood-red. It is highly prized for its unique hue, symbolism, and durability, making it suitable for various types of jewelry.

How are rubies graded?

Unlike diamonds, rubies don’t have a standardized grading system. Nonetheless, by considering the 4Cs—especially the color—a ruby can be categorized into one of three grades:

Good (A): These rubies are opaque with a dark red color.

Better (AA): Medium pinkish-red rubies that include eye-visible inclusions.

Best (AAA): Top-quality rubies that exhibit a rich red color with pink undertones and minor inclusions.

At Artful Bracelets, we exclusively use AAA quality rubies in our fine jewelry.

How much on average are diamond earrings?

The cost of diamond earrings varies based on style, weight, diamonds, and metal selected. On average, classic stud styles with lab-grown diamonds range from $250 to upwards of $1000. For natural diamonds, prices start around $500 and can go up to approximately $3000.

What are huggie earrings?

Huggie earrings are a style of small hoop earrings designed to “hug” the ear closely. They are comfortable for daily wear and fit close to the earlobe.

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