Spotting the Difference: Identifying Real Diamonds vs. Fakes

Real vs. Fake Diamonds
Picture this: Your cherished grandmother has left you her jewelry box filled with stunning necklaces, earrings, and brooches—along with a few loose diamonds. She never mentioned these gems, so how can you tell if they’re real diamonds?

The high demand and value of diamonds have sparked an entire industry dedicated to creating imitation gemstones (like cubic zirconia). The challenge lies in distinguishing a genuine diamond from a fake one by mere appearance. Fortunately, there are several methods to get to the bottom of it.

How to Determine if a Diamond is Genuine or Not

There are two primary ways to differentiate between real and fake diamonds. The first is to consult a professional who can perform a diamond test with specialized equipment. The second option, if you’re not inclined to seek professional help, involves using a few home-based methods to identify whether your loose diamonds are real or fake.

At-Home Techniques for Identifying Genuine Diamonds

Although home tests for determining real vs. fake diamonds aren’t infallible, they are fairly reliable. Most of these methods require just a few common household items.

The Sandpaper Test

This simple test requires only sandpaper and a bit of effort. Rub the gritty side of the sandpaper against the stone. Don’t worry—sandpaper’s grit typically ranges from 7 to 9 on the Mohs scale of hardness. Because diamonds are one of the hardest known materials, a genuine diamond will remain unscathed by sandpaper, while a fake diamond will show scratches.

The Read-Through Test

This test involves trying to read text through an unmounted diamond, also known as a loose diamond. Here are the steps:

  • Place a piece of paper with plain black text on it.
  • Flip the diamond upside down.
  • Attempt to read the text through the inverted diamond.

Note that you cannot read through a real diamond. However, fake diamonds will allow you to discern the printed words.

The Sparkle Test

The way a stone refracts and reflects light is an excellent indicator of its authenticity. In the at-home sparkle test, you visually inspect the stone’s behavior in light. Real diamonds exhibit distinct light refraction, and this property is unchangeable. Fake gems, such as cubic zirconia, sparkle less than real diamonds and usually display iridescent colors. Natural diamonds, on the other hand, reflect light in more grayish hues. If the stone exhibits a spectrum of colors, it is likely synthetic.

The Heat Test

To conduct the heat test, expose a loose gemstone to an open flame (such as from a lighter) for 30 to 45 seconds. Handle the stone with a pair of tweezers with a rubber base to avoid burns. Immediately after heating, place the gem into a container of cool water.

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Why this works: Diamonds have excellent heat conductivity and will evenly diffuse heat throughout the stone. Fake diamonds will not withstand the abrupt temperature change and may shatter. Thus, avoid using this method unless you’re ready to risk damaging a potential imitation.

If your loose diamond withstands this test, it is likely genuine and capable of withstanding various stresses, further enhancing your appreciation and confidence in your gem.

Real Diamonds vs. Lab-Created Diamonds

Contrary to popular belief, lab-created diamonds are not fake; they are simply produced using different methods. Real diamonds are mined from the earth, while lab-created diamonds are manufactured using techniques such as Chemical Vapor Deposition (CVD) or High-Pressure High-Temperature (HPHT). In these processes, carbon atoms are extracted and crystallized layer by layer over a few months, compared to the millennia required for natural diamonds to form in the earth.

Diamonds vs. Moissanite

Moissanite, though initially discovered in a meteor by Henri Moissan, is distinct from diamonds, primarily composed of silicon carbide rather than carbon. While natural moissanite is rare, most moissanite available today is lab-grown. They are almost identical to diamonds but have some notable differences.

A prominent difference is color. Although both can come in yellow, clear, or green, moissanite often appears to change colors as it disperses light. In contrast, natural diamonds tend to have more saturated colors. Gemstone weight is another distinguishing factor, as moissanite is lighter than diamonds, regardless of their physical similarity.

Distinguishing Between Diamonds and White Sapphires

Separating white sapphires from natural diamonds is difficult since they are similar in size, color purity, and durability. The key differences lie beneath the surface: White sapphires are corundum-based and form hexagon-shaped crystals, while diamonds are carbon-based and form cubic crystals. These structural differences influence each stone’s facet shape and light refraction patterns.

Moreover, white sapphires are considered entirely pure and colorless, whereas perfect, clear diamonds often contain slight traces of other colors.

Verifying the Authenticity of Mounted Diamonds

If you have a diamond set in an engagement or any jewelry piece, examining the setting and mount can provide clues about its authenticity.

Due to their higher cost, real diamonds are never set in inexpensive metals. Typically, you will only find them set in metals like white gold, yellow gold, rose gold, or platinum.

To identify the type of setting, inspect the center of the ring for specific markings. For instance, inscriptions like 10KT, 14KT, or 18KT indicate the type of gold. If you notice PT or Plat, the metal is platinum. Additionally, numbers such as 585, 770, 900, or 950 can signify gold or platinum, too. However, if the marking reads “C.Z.,” it means the gemstone is cubic zirconia, an imitation diamond.

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How to Verify if a Diamond is Genuine: Consult with a Professional

If time constraints prevent you from performing at-home diamond tests, or if you prefer a reliable second opinion, visiting a qualified gemologist is the best option.

Remember that not every jeweler is a gemologist. Often, jewelers are skilled salespeople but lack the specialized education of certified gemologists. When visiting a jewelry store, ask whether they have qualified gemologists on staff or can recommend a reputable expert in your area. At Artful Bracelets, our team includes knowledgeable gemologists who can guide you through our extensive diamond and gemstone selection. They can advise you on the perfect gemstone or diamond shape and weight to match your preferences and budget without compromising on beauty. Our gemologists do not earn commission on sales, ensuring their primary goal is to help you, not just make a sale.

A qualified gemologist will employ advanced methods and tests to authenticate your diamond, far beyond what can be done at home. Most importantly, they can assess your gemstone without risking any damage.

Gemologist Inspecting Diamond

Examining Diamonds with a Loupe

Using a loupe, a specialized magnifying glass, professionals inspect diamonds and gemstones for any blemishes or imperfections. Authentic diamonds typically have small inclusions, whereas fake diamonds usually appear flawless.

Utilizing the Diamond Tester Tool

Known as the Thermal Conductivity Probe, this tool assesses a diamond’s heat dispersal rate. Genuine diamonds will quickly disperse heat after warming, while fake ones will do so more slowly.

Precision Weighing

Using a finely calibrated scale, this method measures slight weight differences. Gemologists use magnification up to 1200x with a powerful microscope or conduct X-ray examinations to authenticate diamonds.

The Bottom Line on Real vs. Fake Diamonds

The most effective way to ensure your diamond is genuine is to verify its authenticity before purchasing and to only buy from trusted sources. While the methods mentioned can help determine a diamond’s authenticity, always have a certified gemologist, such as those at Artful Bracelets, verify your diamonds. Home tests are helpful but should not be solely relied upon for making final decisions.

Pro Buying Advice

Aim to optimize the diamond’s cut score and grade, which impact its brilliance. A high-quality cut can enhance lower clarity grades, color tints, or smaller carat weights. You might find value in a “Very Good” cut diamond, which has characteristics close to an Excellent cut but missed the mark due to factors like a thicker girdle or larger table facet.

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