All About Hearts and Arrows Diamonds: Your Ultimate Guide

hearts and arrows diamonds in rings on paper

What is a Hearts and Arrows Diamond?

A Hearts and Arrows diamond, commonly referred to as H&A, is a round diamond cut within tightly controlled proportions and with three perfect symmetries. The diamond’s precisely angled and aligned facets create a sharp, symmetrical reflection visible from both the pavilion (the heart view) and the table (the arrow view).

Crafting hearts and arrows diamonds from rough stones is one of the toughest challenges for any diamond cutter. The brilliance of these diamonds comes from the precise optical symmetry in their cutting. Any slight deviation in the proportions of each facet can affect the diamond’s appearance. For a heart and arrow pattern to align correctly, the facets’ proportions, number, and cutting order must be exact.

Origin of Hearts and Arrows Diamonds

The birthplace of the first “hearts and arrows diamonds” is Japan. During the 1980s, Japanese jewelry experts developed the technique to create “excellent grade” diamonds that would dazzle gemstone graders and consumers alike. The features we mentioned earlier – symmetry, cut (or “ideal proportions”), and the diamond’s brilliance/facet pattern – were perfected to create the first hearts and arrows diamonds. Since then, the demand for these immaculate stones has soared.

Cutting Process: Hearts and Arrows

Forming the Heart: Cutting Process – Creating a heart in a diamond involves a meticulous process. As light passes through the diamond, its various angles and proportions determine how it is refracted. The facets interplay with light to form heart patterns, similar to a kaleidoscope’s effect. The heart pattern isn’t a result of heart-shaped polishing. Two lower-girdle facets create the lobes seen in the heart pattern, with the heart taking shape at the junction of the main pavilion facet and the lower girdle facet.

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Forming the Arrows: Cutting Process – Crafting the arrows in a diamond is akin to forming the heart. Arrows on opposite sides interlock, with the shaft comprising a pavilion lower-half facet. The reflection of the opposing shaft forms the pointed arrow tip. Twelve facets—including the table facet, four star facets, a bezel facet, and six pavilion facets—combine to create the striking arrow effect in the diamond.

When polishing the main facet (the pavilion), its reflection on the opposite side creates a gap, separating the V tip and the heart. Forming half a heart requires at least five facets, so a full heart utilizes twelve facets. In the crown area, two other star facets are polished to square off the pointed shoulders, completing the heart image.

H&A diamonds set the benchmark for judging other diamonds. When facets harmoniously align, the overlapping reflections of hearts and arrows create patterns of brightness and contrast, generating a more vivid, bold flash of light. This unique optical symmetry enhances their light-reflecting properties and provides increased consistency, contrast, intensity, and performance.

Grading Hearts and Arrows Diamonds

There are several misconceptions surrounding what makes a diamond an ideal cut. While some diamonds can display perfect optical symmetry with hearts and arrows, they may still have issues like light obstruction or leakage. Accurately grading these diamonds is challenging. Each diamond’s parameters are checked using a Sarin machine, accompanied by a lab report. The H&A viewer can be used, but doesn’t adhere to a specific grading standard, leading to varied performance among different viewers.

When viewed, the hearts should appear perfectly symmetrical, with chevrons pointing to the culets neatly separated. Crown facets should square off the crown, and there should be a slight split between the heart lobes. Any discrepancy indicates “heart problems.” For the arrows, all eight arrows, along with the shaft and arrowhead, need to be distinctly visible. Arrows and arrowheads should be aligned and extend to the girdle.

How Popular Are Hearts and Arrows Diamonds?

The rarer a gemstone, the higher its demand among consumers, jewelers, and collectors. Hearts and arrows diamonds are no exception. Less than 1% of all diamonds on the market are classified as true, excellent-graded hearts and arrows diamonds.

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The popularity of hearts and arrows diamonds originated in Japan, where they first gained attention and demand since the 1980s. Initially symbols of status in Japan, by the 1990s, these gemstones had become immensely popular in America. Thanks to their increasingly perfect appearance, their popularity continues to rise worldwide each year.

Jewelry Options

As mentioned earlier, many Japanese women wear hearts and arrows diamond jewelry as status symbols. These include rings, necklaces, and earrings, which have also become popular in America in recent years. Additional sought-after jewelry styles and settings include:

  • Hearts and arrows engagement rings
  • Princess cut hearts and arrows anniversary rings
  • Round brilliant cut hearts and arrows diamond bracelets
  • Round cut earrings
  • Round brilliant cut hearts and arrows diamond earrings
  • Heart-shaped hearts and arrows diamond Valentine’s Day/anniversary necklaces

Tips for Purchasing Hearts and Arrows Diamonds

When shopping for hearts and arrows diamonds, remember that no two diamonds are identical, even if designed to be so. Each diamond features a unique set of facets, resulting in varying numbers of hearts and arrows and different ratios of arrow-like shapes to heart shapes. Some diamonds may appear to have only arrows or only hearts. All diamonds meeting the excellent-grade quality and facet illusion reflection criteria are considered authentic hearts and arrows diamonds. However, choosing one depends on your preference for a particular type or ratio.

Also, consider the price. Hearts and arrows diamonds rank among the rarest gemstones in the world, meaning that even the “lowest quality” stones are superior to many flawless clear or white diamonds. Consequently, these diamonds are more expensive. Ensure you are shopping within your budget and that the value of the diamond justifies its price.

Lastly, verify that the type of jewelry you seek is available. Due to their rarity, finding the exact of jewelry made with authentic hearts and arrows diamonds can be challenging. Do some research to ensure that you can find the piece you desire.

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