What Sets Step Cut Diamonds Apart from Brilliant Cuts?

step cut diamonds

When many of us contemplate a diamond — and some think about diamonds frequently, as if it’s an occupational hazard — we often focus on its shape: Round, oval, and occasionally pear. This makes sense, as the shape is prominently visible, often accompanied by joyful tears.

However, the cut of a diamond is an equally crucial feature to consider. The cut correlates directly with the shape and influences how a diamond will dazzle in its setting. Most people are familiar with the basic cut of a round or oval diamond, which results in stunning faceting that sparkles like fire. Yet, step cut diamonds, which are currently quite stylish and trendy, might be less well-known. Here are the fundamentals to help you determine if a step cut is the right choice for you.

What Shapes Are Step Cut Diamonds?

The most common step cut diamond styles include emerald, asscher, baguette, and carré. All these styles feature rectangular (or square) facets that ascend from the diamond’s surface in a step-like pattern. The emerald cut’s elongated, rectangular facets create a flash effect sometimes referred to as a “hall of mirrors.” The asscher cut, a square-shaped , has X-shaped facets extending from its corners to its center culet, producing an entrancing sparkle. A baguette diamond is a rectangular step cut with either straight or tapered edges. The carré cut, square in shape, has facets that can resemble a pyramid when viewed from above.

step cut diamonds

Variations of Step-Cut Diamonds

Despite all being longer and more rectangular in shape, step-cut diamonds come in different styles, each having its unique features. This stands in contrast to brilliant diamonds, which can be round, pear-shaped, oval, or square. Though step-cut diamonds share a similar cutting technique, each elegant gem possesses distinct traits making them unique.

Emerald Diamonds

Emerald diamonds are the most popular among step-cuts, appreciated for their regal appearance, often favored by royalty and celebrities (for instance, Kate Middleton sports an emerald cut from Prince William). The emerald cut diamond features a rectangular shape with clipped corners, forming eight sides and creating an “endless mirrors” effect.

Asscher Diamonds

Asscher diamonds, named after the Asscher Brothers, may look similar to princess-cut diamonds from a distance due to their square-like shape. However, up close, they feature distinctive steps running from the corners to the center culet that enhance their sparkle.

Baguette Diamonds

Unlike emerald and Asscher diamonds with softer corners, baguette diamonds have sharper, more pronounced edges, forming a distinct rectangular shape. Their step cuts reflect light in a unique, hologram-like manner rather than creating significant sparkle. These diamonds are frequently used as side stones in three-stone engagement rings.

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Carré Diamonds

Carré diamonds might be the least popular amongst step-cut styles, but they are certainly intriguing. Their square shape and faceting resemble a pyramid when viewed from above, offering a unique visual appeal.

How Do Brilliant Cut and Step Cut Diamonds Differ?

The main difference between step cut and brilliant cut diamonds lies in the level of sparkle. Brilliant cuts, primarily round or princess cut diamonds, exhibit maximum sparkle due to their numerous triangular and kite-shaped facets, resulting in an intense light performance. Essentially, facets can be thought of as faces that reflect light within the diamond.

step cut and brilliant cut facet comparison

Though step cuts also sparkle, they do so less than brilliant cuts due to fewer facets, making them appear very elegant but less reflective of light.

Advantages of Step Cut Diamonds

Step cut diamonds offer several notable advantages — notably, the endorsement by celebrities like Kate Middleton and Lady Gaga, who have showcased emerald-cut engagement rings, boosting their popularity. Their sleek appearance appeals to those who appreciate vintage jewelry or minimalist fashion. Additionally, because step cuts retain more of the rough diamond’s weight, they are generally less expensive than brilliant cuts, which discard more of the raw gem. Although step cuts might lack sparkle, they better highlight a diamond’s clarity.

Considerations for Step Cut Diamonds

Regarding the diamond’s four C’s — cut, clarity, color, and carat — if step cut diamonds attract you, clarity may need to be prioritized since natural inclusions are less obscured compared to other cuts.

step cut inclusion comparison

Cost Comparison

Experts confirm that round brilliant diamonds are the most expensive due to the precision needed for their numerous facets and the significant loss of raw diamond during the cutting process. Emerald and Asscher cuts are among the more affordable step-cut options, with baguette and carré styles falling mid-range in cost.

It’s important to note that baguettes and carré diamonds are traditionally used as side stones in multi-diamond rings rather than as the centerpiece of engagement rings.

Ultimately, a diamond’s beauty is subjective and based on personal style preferences, not just the number of facets.

Shopping Guide: Our Favorite Step-Cut Diamond Rings

Uncertain where to begin when searching for step-cut diamond engagement rings? We’ve compiled some of our favorites — ranging from traditional to modern, all of which are stunningly beautiful.

three-stone tapered baguette

Three Stone Tapered Baguette Diamond Engagement

Ring

While any diamond engagement ring captivates as a piece of art, the Three Stone Tapered Baguette Diamond Engagement Ring elevates it to a completely new realm. With .46 carats of accent stones and baguette side stones, this high-profile ring is designed to draw attention to the center stone’s radiant sparkle.

classic four prong east west

Classic Four Prong East West Diamond Engagement Ring

Round and princess-cut diamonds are the standard choices for solitaire rings, but the Classic Four Prong East West Diamond Engagement Ring challenges this norm. The east-west setting of the center emerald makes it appear larger than its actual size, making it a topic of conversation due to its distinctive style.

basket solitaire

Diamond Basket Solitaire Engagement Ring

At first glance, the Diamond Basket Solitaire Engagement Ring seems to feature a princess-cut diamond, but a closer look reveals an Asscher diamond with multiple step cuts enhancing its visual allure. The simple four-prong setting is designed to focus entirely on the diamond itself.

princess accent

Princess Accent Diamond Engagement Ring

If you’re inclined towards a thicker band, the Princess Accent Diamond Engagement Ring is an excellent choice. It features a center Asscher cut diamond surrounded by large princess-cut accent stones on either side, all complemented by a band adorned with many smaller princess-cut diamonds.

two tone bypass

Two-Tone Bypass Diamond Engagement Ring

The Two-Tone Bypass Diamond Engagement Ring blurs the line between the center stone and the band with its unique design. It includes a split shank that wraps around the emerald-cut diamond — one split encrusted with princess-cut pave stones and the other smooth — creating an eye-catching twist.

FAQs

Which are the most popular step-cut diamond shapes?

Emerald, asscher, baguette, and carré are the most sought-after step-cut diamond styles.

What are step-cut diamonds?

Step-cut diamonds feature rectangular or square facets that cascade from the diamond’s center in a stair-like pattern.

What is the ‘hall of mirrors’ effect in an emerald-cut diamond?

The ‘hall of mirrors’ effect in an emerald-cut diamond is created by its long, rectangular facets that produce a mirror-like flash.

What is the difference between brilliant cut and step cut diamonds?

The primary distinction between step-cut and brilliant-cut diamonds lies in their sparkle. Brilliant cuts have numerous facets, maximizing their sparkle, whereas step-cut diamonds have fewer facets, resulting in less sparkle.

What are the benefits of step-cut diamonds?

Step-cut diamonds are ideal for vintage designs and minimalistic settings. They also result in less rough wastage, making them more affordable than brilliant cuts.

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