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Shape and Carat
Oval, round, and cushion cuts are the most popular for sapphires, often used in rings, pendants, and earrings. The hexagonal crystalline structure of sapphires allows them to be cut into various durable shapes, even with regular wear. Shapes like round require more rough wastage during cutting, resulting in higher costs. Therefore, cutters aim to determine the optimal shape for the rough sapphire. Besides these popular shapes, sapphires can also be cut into marquise, heart, pear, and princess shapes. The goal is to maintain carat weight and size while avoiding a deep cut that makes the stone bottom-heavy without appearing large from the top. Key factors in creating a well-cut sapphire include ensuring the crown (the gem’s top) is even, smooth, and symmetrical. The topmost facet should be centered, giving the gem an even appearance from all angles. Proper cutting ensures the sapphire’s shape is aesthetically pleasing and fits beautifully in any jewelry piece. Learn more about Sapphire Shapes.
Sapphires are generally cut in standard millimeter sizes, which vary by shape. These shapes are commonly used in jewelry and follow standardized sizes adopted by jewelers worldwide. Uncommon shapes and sizes, often found in larger or unusually colored sapphires, tend to have higher value. Ultimately, choosing a shape and carat weight is subjective, but sapphires’ durability allows them to withstand daily wear regardless of their shape and size.
Color Consideration
Sapphires come in a wide range of colors, including yellow, blue, orange, peach, white, purple, and teal. The primary objective when cutting a sapphire is to achieve even color, tone, and saturation throughout the gem. Darker sapphires are typically cut shallower to allow more light to reflect, while lighter ones have a heavier bottom to enhance color and sparkle. Artful Bracelets gemologists meticulously select sapphires with the best color saturation. When tilted and turned, a well-cut sapphire should emit vibrant blue sparkles. High-quality sapphires avoid color zoning to ensure an even color throughout. For further information, refer to our sapphire color guide.
Sapphire Brilliance
While color is paramount in gemstones, the sparkle a sapphire emits is a crucial factor in determining its value and beauty. The shine depends on the light entering and reflecting out of the gem. A perfectly cut sapphire has even, symmetrical facets and angles that enhance its sparkle, making it visually appealing. Mastering the art of cutting to maximize brilliance can significantly increase the sapphire’s value.
Types of Cuts
Step Cut
The step cut features a large, smooth top facet, with each subsequent facet cut parallelly in a staircase-like manner. Each level must be cut evenly with the previous one. Slightly rounded corners create the emerald cut, protecting the gemstone from breaking or chipping and highlighting its color beautifully. With the emerald cut, ensure minimal clarity inclusions in the center to avoid visibility. Artful Bracelets selects sapphires with negligible inclusions.
Brilliant Cut
Brilliant cuts, prevalent in modern diamonds, feature kite-shaped facets, sometimes totaling up to 58, depending on the sapphire’s shape. This cut maximizes the gemstone’s sparkle due to light reflecting through its numerous facets and angles.
Mixed Cut
Combining the brilliant cut crown with a step cut pavilion, the mixed cut balances sparkle and color effectively. This method is widely used for minimizing waste and maximizing the sapphire’s visual appeal.
Cabochon Cut
The cabochon cut is the simplest to produce, featuring a smooth, dome-shaped top and a flat bottom. These sapphires are less expensive than faceted counterparts and are commonly used in various types of sapphire jewelry.
Sapphire Inclusions
When cutting sapphires, clarity inclusions—natural formations like silk needles, cracks, fissures, or opaque knots—must be considered. Minimizing these inclusions’ visibility, especially on the sapphire’s top facet, is crucial. Heavy inclusions can render the sapphire opaque, reducing its sparkle and color display. Artful Bracelets ensures all sapphires have minimal visible inclusions, striking the perfect balance between beauty and value. Learn more about sapphire clarity.
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